The present invention relates to forming oil-in-water emulsions in the form of a cream which are based on nonionic surfactants, a specific fatty phase and a crosslinked polymer comprising a cationic or anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation. The present invention also relates to the use, in topical application, in particular in cosmetics and dermatology, of the disclosed foaming oil-in-water emulsions.
Foaming creams for cleansing the skin, which have a smooth feel, are generally in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing detergent surfactants and foaming agents. The oily phase makes it possible to soften the skin after rinsing. However, the oily phase has a tendency to inhibit the foaming properties of these formulations; it is said to xe2x80x9cbreakxe2x80x9d the foam. Consequently, the oily phase is introduced into foaming creams at low concentrations, generally of less than 5% by weight.
The surfactant systems used in foaming creams generally consist mainly of anionic surfactants. Despite their high foaming power and their good detergency, anionic surfactants have a certain irritant potential with regard to the skin and the eyes, and are incompatible with a large number of gelling agents.
In order to reduce this irritant potential, amphoteric surfactants and/or nonionic surfactants are combined with the anionic surfactants. In this regard, International patent application WO 93/02411 describes cleansing foaming compositions containing a surfactant system consisting of anionic surfactants combined with amphoteric surfactants in the presence of a water-insoluble oil and/or a wax.
A main object of the present invention is to be able to produce foaming creams based on an exclusively nonionic foaming surfactant system which may contain large amounts of oil without, however, jeopardizing the foaming power.
The prior art teaches that when compositions based on nonionic surfactants and oil are prepared, the foaming power of these compositions decreases when the proportion of oil is increased, relative to the surfactant system.
Such a teaching is illustrated, in particular, by European patent EP-617,954, which describes foaming cosmetic compositions comprising at least one nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglucoside and/or polyglycerolated type and at least one crosslinked copolymer of maleic anhydride/alkyl vinyl ether and optionally an oil in very low proportions. This European patent document, however, does not describe foaming creams.
European patent EP-642,781 illustrates another aspect of this same principle by describing acidic non-foaming creams in the form of stable oil-in-water emulsions comprising a nonionic surfactant system, large amounts of oil and, as a stabilizer, crosslinked acrylamide/2-acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid copolymers. The compositions described in this patent are non-foaming.
Cosmetic compositions for cleansing the skin are moreover known from U.S. Pat. No. 5,011,681. These compositions are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions comprising a surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 10, an oily phase comprising a poly(alpha-olefin) and a carboxylic copolymer containing from 95.9 to 98.8% by weight of a monoolefinically unsaturated monomer chosen from acrylic, methacrylic and ethacrylic acids, and from 1 to 3.5% of an arylic, methacrylic or ethacrylic acid ester with a C10-C30 alcohol. These compositions have the drawback of having a sticky feel, a runny appearance and elastic behavior. In addition, the foaming power of these compositions is insufficient. The compositions according to the present invention overcome these drawbacks of the prior art.
The Inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the goal which they had set could be achieved by novel aqueous foaming compositions, in cream form, containing an exclusively nonionic surfactant system, a fatty phase having specific properties which will be defined below, it being possible for this fatty phase to be present in a large amount relative to the surfactant system, and a crosslinked polymer or copolymer of a cationic or anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation.
The foaming creams in accordance with the invention are stable upon storage, have excellent foaming properties, are of better tolerance and harmlessness with respect to the skin and the eyes, i.e., are less irritating, when compared with the known foaming compositions and have good cosmetic properties when handled and to the touch.
In addition, the compositions of the invention may contain large amounts of oils which may be up to 6 to 10 times the amount of nonionic surfactants present in the formulation, without significantly affecting the foaming power or the stability of the compositions.
It is thus possible to introduce large amounts of care oil, i.e., any oil generally useful in the care of the skin and/or the hair, into such compositions and to obtain xe2x80x9ctwo-in-onexe2x80x9d foaming products.
The compositions according to the invention comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least:
(a) from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an exclusively nonionic surfactant system comprising at least one foaming nonionic surfactant;
(b) from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an oily phase comprising at least one water-insoluble oil, wherein said at least one water-insoluble oil has solubility parameters dD, dP and dH according to Hansen""s solubility space which satisfy the following conditions:
15.5 (J/cm3)xc2xdxe2x89xa6dDxe2x89xa618.0 (J/cm3)xc2xd
and
0 (J/cm3)xc2xdxe2x89xa6dAxe2x89xa66.5 (J/cm3)xc2xd
with
dA=(dP2+dH2)xc2xd; 
and
(c) as a gelling agent, at least one crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer formed from at least one cationic or anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation and from a crosslinking agent containing polyethylenic unsaturation; wherein said crosslinked copolymer does not comprise a copolymer containing a majority fraction of at least one olefinically unsaturated C3-C6 acid and a minority fraction of at least one ester of an olefinically unsaturated C3-C6 acid with a C10-C30 alcohol.
The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium:
(a) from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an exclusively nonionic surfactant system comprising at least one foaming nonionic surfactant; and
(b) from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an oily phase comprising at least one water-insoluble oil whose solubility parameters are as defined above.
The foaming nonionic surfactants used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants having a foaming power preferably characterized by a foam height of more than 100 mm, more preferably characterized by a foam height of more than 120 mm, measured according to the Ross-Miles method for a 0.1% by weight solution of surfactant in distilled water at 25xc2x0 C.
The foaming nonionic surfactants used in the compositions according to the invention are more preferably chosen from:
(i) the compounds of formula (I): 
xe2x80x83in which:
R represents aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arylaliphatic radical or a mixture of radicals from 7 to 21 carbon atoms, it being possible for the aliphatic chains to be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and to contain sulphur or oxygen atoms, in particular ether, thioether or hydroxymethylene groups;
n is any integer or fraction greater than 1 and less than or equal to 10 and denotes the average degree of polymerization;
(ii) the compounds of formula (II)
R1O(G)p 
xe2x80x83in which R1 is a monovalent hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, G is a saccharide derivative containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and p is a statistical average value ranging and 1 to 6; and
(iii) mixture thereof.
The compounds of formula (I) are described in French Patent No. FR 2,091,516, the disclosure of which is incorporated specifically by reference herein. Compounds of formula (I) are obtained by polycondensation of an xcex1-diol containing a fatty chain onto the glycidyol.
Preferred compounds of formula (I) are those in which R represents an alkyl radical or a mixture of alkyl radicals containing from 9 to 12 atoms and n represents an average statictical value ranging from 3 to 4.
Dodecanediol polyglycerolated with 3.5 mol of glycerol, sold under the name CHIMEXANE NF by the company Chimex, is particularly used.
The compounds of formula (II) are described, in particular, in International patent application WO 94/27562, the disclosure of which is specifically incorporated by reference herein. The preferred compounds are those for which the radical R1 is a C8-C16 alkyl radical, and even more preferred are those compounds whose degree of polymerization is equal to 1.4 or 1.6.
Examples of the compounds of formula (II) which may be mentioned are:
the alkylpolyglycosides marketed by Henkel under the names APG 225, APG 425 and APG 625;
the alkylpolyglucosides marketed by Henkel under the name GLUCOPON, similar to APG 625, but with a different degree of polymerization;
the alkylpolyglycosides marketed by Henkel under the name PLANTAREN, such as PLANTAREN 2000, which is a C8-C16-alkylpolyglucoside with a degree of polymerization of 1.4; PLANTAREN 1200, which is a C12-C18-alkylpolyglucoside with a degree of polymerization of 1.4; and PLANTAREN 1300, which is a C12-C18-alkylpolyglycoside with a degree of polymerization of 1.6.
The compositions according to the invention may also contain foaming silicone nonionic surfactants such as the polydimethylsiloxanes containing a polyoloside group, for instance SLM SPG 120 from the company Wacker or the polydimethylsiloxane derivatives containing alkylphosphobetaine groups, such as PECOSIL SPB-1240 from the company UCIB.
The definition of the solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is described in the article by C. M. Hansen: xe2x80x9cThe three dimensional solubility parametersxe2x80x9d J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). Specifically:
dD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;
dP characterizes the Debye forces of interaction between permanent dipoles;
dH characterizes the specific forces of interaction (of the type: hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);
dA is determined by the equation:
dA=(dP+dH2)xc2xd
The parameters dD, dP, dH and dA are expressed in (J/cm3)xc2xd.
According to the present invention, the oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil such that 15.5xe2x89xa6dDxe2x89xa618.0 and 0xe2x89xa6dAxe2x89xa66.5. The parameters dD and dA more preferably satisfy the condition: 16.0xe2x89xa6dDxe2x89xa618.0 and 0xe2x89xa6dAxe2x89xa65.5.
Among the oils satisfying the inequalities 15.5xe2x89xa6dDxe2x89xa618.0 and 0xe2x89xa6dAxe2x89xa66.5, those which may preferably by mentioned, for example, as:
mineral oils such as liquid paraffin and liquid petrolatum;
oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;
oils of plant origin such as jojoba oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, karite butter and the liquid fraction thereof; and
synthetic oils such as fatty esters, for instance purcellin oil, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isosteryl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate and hydrogenated isoparaffin (6-8 mol of isobutylene).
The oily phase of the compositions according to the invention may also contain other types of oils which do not satisfy the conditions of Hansen""s solubility parameters determined above, such as, for example, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, octyldodecanol, and isohexadecane.
These other oils, if present, are preferably present in the oily phase at concentrations of less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase. The oily phase thus preferably comprises from 85 to 100% of oil corresponding to the conditions relating to parameters dD and dA defined above.
The crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers used in the compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one cationic or anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation and a crosslinking agent containing polyethylenic unsaturation.
The anionic monomer is preferably chosen from (meth)acrylic acid, ammonium (meth)acrylate and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, as well as their salts.
The cationic monomer is preferably chosen from dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylates, more preferably dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, and from dialkylaminoalkyhl(meth)acrylamides and quaternary salts or acids thereof, the alkyl radicals preferably being C1-C4.
The crosslinked copolymers according to the invention preferably comprise a nonionic comonomer chosen from methacrylamide, acylamide and C10-C30 esters of (meth)acrylic acid.
The crosslinking agents containing polyethylenic unsaturation are preferably chosen from divinylbenzene; tetraallyloxyethane; diallyl ether; polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers; allyl ethers of alcohols from the sugar series such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, sorbitol or glucose; methylenebis(acrylamide); ethylene glycol di-(methyl)acrylate; di-(meth)acrylamide; cyanomethyl acrylate; vinyloxyethyl (meth)acrylate and metal salts of any of these compounds.
The sugars included in the sugar series, as referred to in the preceding paragraph, preferably comprise sugars containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, including monosaccharides such as fructose, glucose, galactose, xylose, mannose, lyxose, arabinose, and mixtures of these, and oligosaccharides such as maltose, xylobiose, isomallose, cellobiose, gentiobiose, lactose, sucrose, nigerose, turanose, faffinose, gentianose, melezitose, and mixtures of these.
The crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from:
(a) acrylic acid homopolymers crosslinked with an allyl ether of an alcohol from the sugar series, such as the products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Goodrich or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA;
(b) copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid which is partially or totally neutralized (with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or an amine) and of acrylamide, such as the product described in Example 1 of European patent application EP-A-503,853;
(c) ammonium acrylate homopolymers such as the product sold under the name MICROSAP PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, such as the product sold under the name BOZEPOL C NOUVEAU, or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst (which are described and prepared in French patent No. FR 2,416,723, and U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,798,053 and 2,923,692, the disclosures of which are incorporated by reference);
(d) crosslinked homopolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, such as the products sold under the names SALCARE 95 and SALCARE 96 by the company Allied Colloids, or the copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate which is quaternized with methyl chloride and of acrylamide, such as the product SALCARE SC92 sold by Allied Colloids, or the product PAS 5194 sold by Hoechst (which are described and prepared in European patent application EP-A-395,282, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference).
The crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers are present in the compositions of the invention at active material concentrations preferably ranging from 0.2 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight, and more particularly from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may also contain emulsifying nonionic surfactants such as oxyethylenated alkylphenols, such as the product sold under the name NIKKOLI HCO (oxyethylenated hydrogenated ricinoleic triglycerides (60 EO)) by the company Nikkol, or the product sold under the name SOLUBILISANT LRI (oxyethylenated butyl alcohol (26 EO)) with a mixture of oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil (40 EO) and water (54/36) by the company Wacker. They are preferably present at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight.
The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain thickening agents which have a low flow threshold, namely agents which can flow under their own weight and which have a low gelling power. Examples which may be mentioned are natural gelling agents such as galactomannans, for instance guar and carob; carrageenans such as D-galactopyranose (product AUBYGUM X2 sold by the company Sanofi); sodium alginates (polymannuronate and guluronate); cellulose and derivatives thereof such as methylcellulose, propylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose; xanthan gums such as those consisting of D-glucose, D-mannose and D-glucuronic acid; fucose-rich polysaccharides such as the product FUCOGEL 1000 sold by the company Solabia.
The compositions according to the invention may also contain from synergists such as alkanolamides, for instance monoethanolamides and dialkanolamides; and more particularly monoisopropanolamides and diethanolamides; alkylamidodimethylamines; amine oxide derivatives such as alkyldimethylamine oxides, alkyldihydroxyethylamine oxides, alkylamidomethylamine oxides, alkylamidohydroxyethylamine oxides and alkylamidohydroxyethylamine oxides. They are preferably present in concentrations of less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain, in the oily phase, one or more lipophilic cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents such as, for example, anti-free-radical agents, ceramides, lipophilic formulation additives such as preserving agents, antioxidants and perfumed oils.
The compositions according to the invention may also contain, in the aqueous medium, hydrophilic cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents which are commonly used, such as polyols, for instance glycerol, 2,4,4xe2x80x2-trichloro-2xe2x80x2-hydroxydiphenyl ether, the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (or piroctone olamine) such as the product OCTOPIROX sold by the company Hoechst, alpha-hydroxy acids, keratolytic agents such as urea, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, antibacterial agents, antiseborrhoreic agents and antidandruff agents. The compositions according to the invention may contain standard formulation additives such as pigments, pearlescent agents, inorganic or organic fillers such as talc, kaolin, silica powder or polyethylene powder, and expanded thermoplastic hollow particles such as the product EXPANCEL 550 DE 20 sold by the company Nobel Casco.
The compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosity ranging from 1.5 to 6 Pa s and more preferably ranging from 2.5 to 4 Pa s.
The compositions according to the invention, i.e., in cream form, produce sufficiently abundant foam on contact with water.
Another subject of the invention is of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for cleansing the skin, the mucous membranes, the hair or the scalp, comprising a foaming cream as defined above.
The foaming creams of the invention may be used as bases for products for the cleansing of/removal of make-up from the skin, the eyes and/or the face.
The foaming creams of the invention may also be used as bases for cleansing and care products for the hair or the scalp, such as two-in-one shampoos.
The foaming creams of the invention may also be used as bases for hygiene and care products for the skin and/or the body, such as two-in-one shower creams.
Another subject of the invention is directed to a process for cleansing the skin, the mucous membranes, the hair or the scalp, which comprises applying in the presence of water, to the skin, the mucous membranes, the hair or the scalp, a cosmetically effective amount of an oil-in-water emulsion as described above to obtain a foam; and removing, by rinsing with water, any foam or dirt residues from the skin, mucous membranes, hair or scalp.
Obviously, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the possible additional compound or compounds and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the ternary combination in accordance with the invention are not damaged, or are not substantially damaged, by the addition or additions envisaged.
The examples which follow are intended to illustrate the invention without, however, limiting the scope thereof.